Unagi, the Japanese term for eel, might be an unfamiliar delicacy to many Western palates, but in Japan, it's a revered dish that strikes a unique balance between luxurious taste and affordability.
Its rich, sumptuous flavor, combined with its heartiness, has endeared it to people from all walks of life.
And there's no better place to embark on this culinary adventure than Nagoya, the undisputed capital of unagi delicacies.
But to truly immerse yourself in the world of unagi, you must experience hitsumabushi.
This isn't just a dish; it's a journey of flavors, textures, and traditions.
Hitsumabushi is divided into four tantalizing quarters, each enjoyed in a distinct manner.
Begin by spooning a quarter of the grilled eel over rice in a small bowl.
As you transition to the second quarter, enhance your eel and rice with aromatic condiments, be it the sharp kick of wasabi or the fresh crunch of green onions.
The third phase introduces a delightful twist as you pour a warm, savory soup broth over the eel and rice, transforming the dish's texture and depth.
By the time you reach the final quarter, you have the freedom to savor the eel in whichever of the previous styles resonated most with your palate.
It's not just about eating; it's about discovering and celebrating your personal unagi preference.
うな富士 本店 / Unafuji Honten
Situated in the heart of Nagoya, "うな富士 本店 / Unafuji Honten" is not just a restaurant, but a symbol of passion and a dream come true.
Its foundation in 1995 was inspired by the founder's profound culinary encounter with shirayaki, or unseasoned grilled seafood.
This flavor epiphany led him to leave his daily job, brave the competitive Nagoya restaurant scene, and open a sanctuary for eel enthusiasts.
Fast-forward 25 years, and "うな富士 本店 / Unafuji Honten"'s unparalleled excellence found acknowledgment in the prestigious Michelin Guide.
A meal at "うな富士 本店 / Unafuji Honten" is a sumptuous affair.
Their specialty, charcoal-grilled sumiyaki unagi, emphasizes eels that are larger-than-average, plump, and packed with flavorsome meat and fat.
Each morning, the diligent team at "うな富士 本店 / Unafuji Honten" visits local markets, leveraging their longstanding connections to eel farmers to procure only the finest 20% of the catch.
Their signature grilling technique, which employs a fiery charcoal blaze of over 1,000 degrees Celsius, ensures the eel retains its juiciness, umami flavor, and inherent fat.
But the experience doesn't end there.
The eel's flavor is further accentuated by a meticulously researched sauce, a delightful concoction with a mix of sugar and salt that's simply perfect.
And while hitsumabushi remains their star dish, the menu also tempts patrons with unagidon, a hearty bowl where grilled eel luxuriously sits atop a bed of fluffy rice.
And if you're in a celebratory mood, why not pair your meal with a cup of fine sake or a glass of excellent shochu?
おか冨士 / Okafuji
Drawing inspiration from the legendary unagi restaurant "うな富士 / Unafuji", "おか冨士 / Okafuji" in Nagoya offers a rich blend of tradition and innovation.
The story of its inception is that of a culinary pilgrimage.
The founder journeyed across Japan, sampling and analyzing various unagi dishes.
His experiences, coupled with an unwavering commitment to mastering the art of eel preparation, from selection and gutting to the artful skewering and charcoal grilling, resulted in "おか冨士 / Okafuji".
Each dish served here is a testimony to the founder's passion, knowledge, and expertise.
Only the most tender, meat-filled eels, which remain soft to the very tip of the tail, find their way to the plate.
Their sauce, a guarded secret nurtured over 25 years at "うな富士 / Unafuji", adds an extra layer of mystique and flavor.
And don't forget to try a cup of smooth sake with your eel.
It would be hard to find a better combination.
Set in an ambiance that radiates warmth and friendliness, "おか冨士 / Okafuji" promises not only the best eel dishes in Nagoya but also an unmatched hospitality experience, making each visit truly memorable.
登河 那古野本店 / Togawa Nagoya
"登河 那古野本店 / Togawa Nagoya" stands as a beacon for both eel and chicken aficionados.
The interior, an artful blend of clean lines and sophistication, offers a serene backdrop to a culinary journey.
Large parties will find the spacious rooms particularly appealing.
As the sun sets, "登河 那古野本店 / Togawa Nagoya" transforms into a gourmet paradise.
From a diverse selection of eel and chicken dishes to soul-warming hot pots like miso nabe and sukiyaki nabe, there's something to satiate every craving.
The nabe, with its rich chicken broth, traces its lineage back to the samurai era and is presented in exquisite Nambu ironware from Iwate Prefecture.
To accompany the meal, a comprehensive drinks menu awaits, from classic beers and whiskeys to refined wines and the gentle bite of shochu, a distilled liquor similar to vodka but weaker.
うなキング / Unaking Nagoya
For those on the move, "うなキング / Unaking Nagoya" offers a unique gastronomic experience.
Located a stone's throw away from Nagoya Station, this tachinomi-style eatery embodies the essence of Japanese urban life.
Here, patrons stand at the counter, savoring quick yet delectable meals.
Every dawn, the team at "うなキング / Unaking Nagoya" is on a quest, sourcing freshly caught eels that promise unmatched flavor.
From affordable skewered eels starting at just 350 yen to a plethora of dishes like the indulgent unagi kabayaki broiled in a soy sauce broth, there's a dish for every palate and pocket.
And to enhance the experience, choose from their selection of refreshing beers or the subtle nuances of sake, making every bite a celebration.
丸八 名古屋店 / Maruhachi Nagoya
Step into "丸八 名古屋店 / Maruhachi Nagoya", and a gust of nostalgia hits you.
The interior, reminiscent of mid-20th century Japan, provides a comforting embrace.
The spaciousness of the dining area makes it a haven for families and large groups seeking a memorable meal.
While eel remains a key attraction, "丸八 名古屋店 / Maruhachi Nagoya" serves a diverse palette of Nagoya's renowned cuisine.
Be it the delightful hitsumabushi, the savory miso katsu (pork cutlets topped with a savory miso sauce), or the soulful oyakodon (a bowl of rice topped with chicken and egg) made from the renowned Cochin chicken of Nagoya, every dish is a culinary masterpiece.
Guests can opt for course meals or individual dishes, but each plate promises an unforgettable flavor journey.
To round off the experience, a curated list of alcoholic beverages awaits, from the nuanced flavors of sake and whiskey to the effervescence of beer and the rich profiles of wine.
Features of Unagi
In the grand tapestry of world cuisines, Japan has always woven a narrative of elegance, simplicity, and profound depth.
The tale of unagi is but one thread, yet it stands out vibrantly, capturing the essence of Japanese culinary mastery.
Nagoya, with its rich history and vibrant food culture, serves as the perfect backdrop to the unagi saga.
It's more than just a dish; it's an experience, a ritual, and a celebration of flavor.
As you travel through the quarters of hitsumabushi, you're not merely consuming food, but partaking in a tradition that has been refined and perfected over generations.
It is a symphony of textures, tastes, and techniques, urging you to pause and savor every bite, every nuance.
Beyond the allure of its taste, unagi offers a deeper insight into the Japanese ethos – a testament to the country's relentless pursuit of perfection, its reverence for tradition, and its innate ability to blend the old with the new.
So, whether you're a seasoned unagi enthusiast or a curious first-timer, the journey promises not only satiation for your palate but also a lasting imprint on your soul.
As you step away from the vibrant streets of Nagoya, the memories of that grilled eel, with its delicate dance of flavors, remain, beckoning you to return and relive the magic.
Written by Farrell
American translator, writer, and photographer based in Kyoto for over 20 years.
Has traveled extensively across Japan and sampled a wide range of the country's cuisine, sukiyaki being his favorite so far.
Enjoys finding excellent yet affordable food in suburbs and other locales away from the popular sightseeing spots.
His photography focuses on the harmonious blend of modern and traditional in Kyoto and elsewhere in Japan.
Avid baseball fan.
Go Hanshin Tigers!