Tucked away in the bustling arteries of Japan's vast metropolises, where neon lights shimmer and modernity meets tradition, is a cornerstone of Japanese culture: the izakaya.
Far surpassing the simplicity of what the Western world would call a tavern or pub, the izakaya is a harmonious blend of culinary theater and intimate social gathering.
It represents the embodiment of Japan's unique dining ethos, where every bite tells a story and every sip carries the weight of tradition.
At its core, an izakaya is an experience—a space where an array of delectable small dishes, from the deep-fried delights of tempura to the artful elegance of sashimi, play companion to rounds of sake, beer, and heartwarming conversation.
But it's more than just the sum of its dishes and drinks.
Each izakaya, with its distinctive ambiance, specialties, and tales, is a testament to Japan's rich gastronomic heritage and the country's unwavering commitment to hospitality.
石狩川 / Ishikarigawa
Robatayaki, a time-honored Japanese cooking technique, encapsulates the art of grilling ingredients over hot charcoal.
This method not only preserves the ingredient's natural flavors but also adds a unique smoky aroma that is both tantalizing and satisfying.
"石狩川 / Ishikarigawa", strategically positioned just a brief three-minute stroll from Shinjuku Station's west gate, exemplifies this culinary tradition.
Distinguishing itself as an izakaya that offers an exquisite blend of seafood, sashimi, and traditional washoku dishes, the establishment beckons diners with a promise of gastronomic delight.
Seafood aficionados will revel in the seasonal robatayaki, crafted from seafood brought in directly from the harbor, ensuring utmost freshness.
For a more immersive seafood experience, there are the delectable sashimi dishes and the soul-soothing nabe hot pot.
A special mention must be made of the year-round sourced oysters from Hokkaido, notable for their sweet and plump texture.
The Ishikari nabe stands out with its salmon and vegetable offerings immersed in a miso and butter broth, made unique by the restaurant's guarded secret miso recipe.
For those seeking an expansive dining experience, various curated courses present themselves: from the juxtaposition of roast beef and seafood to the combination of nabe and sashimi, accompanied by fried delicacies.
A savvy diner who starts a course before the clock strikes six p.m. is in for a delightful 500-yen discount per person.
As every great meal deserves an equally great drink, the restaurant offers an all-you-can-drink option and an impressive array of sake, selected for its harmonious pairing with seafood.
山本屋 / Yamamotoya
Nestled in the bustling heart of Tokyo, just moments away from the pulsating Shinjuku Station, lies "山本屋 / Yamamotoya"—a sanctuary for tempura enthusiasts.
Tempura, a deep-fried delicacy that encapsulates the harmony between crispy batter and succulent ingredients, has a storied history in Japan, and at Yamamotoya, this tradition is embraced and celebrated.
The izakaya stands as a tribute not only to tempura but also to shochu and washoku, embodying the spirit of Japanese culinary arts.
The atmosphere is both cozy and expansive, making it an inviting place for solo diners seeking a comforting meal after a long day, as well as for large groups eager to share laughter and memories over sumptuous food.
The menu dazzles with over 15 skewered tempura options, each one representing the changing seasons and their bounty.
Whether it's the delicate blossoms of spring or the hearty roots of winter, each ingredient is chosen with care and deep-fried to perfection.
The tempura-don is a particular delight, where crispy tempura finds its home atop a bed of warm, fluffy rice, making for a satisfying midday meal.
Another star is the grated Japanese yam, a unique offering that boasts of its origins from Yamaguchi Prefecture.
And for those looking to wash down their meal with a drink, there's an array of sake and shochu, curated from all corners of Japan.
The daily recommended sake often serves as an exciting introduction to this world, guiding both novices and connoisseurs.
And lest we forget, meat lovers will find their haven with the Rank A5 Kuroge wagyu beef, a luxurious treat that promises an unforgettable melt-in-the-mouth experience.
新宿宮川 昭和ビル店 / Shinjuku Miyagawa Showa Building
In the heart of Shinjuku, a mere two-minute saunter from the ever-busy Shinjuku Station, one discovers "新宿宮川 昭和ビル店 / Shinjuku Miyagawa Showa Building", an izakaya that stands as a testament to the art of sashimi.
The practice of thinly slicing raw fish, presenting it with minimalistic flair yet maximum flavor, finds its epitome here.
Yet, this establishment is more than just its sashimi.
It's a confluence of the finest seafood, yakitori, shochu, and washoku.
The ambiance inside is pure elegance, with wood-paneled walls that echo tales of Japanese craftsmanship, tables that gleam under the ambient lighting, bamboo artworks that whisper of tradition, and ikebana arrangements that bloom with artistry.
The venue is adaptable, catering to intimate dinner dates in private rooms or large celebrations in a banquet hall that can comfortably host up to 180 guests.
When it comes to the menu, seafood is undeniably the protagonist.
Dishes like salmon, yellowtail, and seabream showcase the ocean's bounty.
There's also the unique seafood shabu-shabu, where the yuzu-infused broth provides a citrusy embrace to the ingredients.
But the delights are not limited to the waters.
Land offerings are abundant with skewered kushiyaki delicacies and diverse yakitori options.
The bacon-wrapped asparagus stands out, promising both crunch and tenderness.
A Japanese-style salad with ingredients like sakura shrimp as the star of the show is also recommended.
And to quench one's thirst, there's a vast ocean of beverages, ranging from the traditional sake and shochu to the inventive modern cocktails.
ぞんぶん 新宿三丁目店 / Zonbun Shinjuku 3-chome
Hidden amidst the urban sprawl, marked distinctly by its gold and white signboard, "ぞんぶん 新宿三丁目店 / Zonbun Shinjuku 3-chome" emerges as an epitome of culinary authenticity.
This izakaya specializes in the wonders of the deep sea, especially the splendid alfonsino.
Known for its soft, tender texture and nuanced flavor, the alfonsino finds its rightful place of honor here.
But "ぞんぶん 新宿三丁目店 / Zonbun Shinjuku 3-chome"'s menu isn't restricted to just one marine marvel.
With daily fresh catches from the renowned Toyosu Fish Market, every dish promises the unparalleled taste of the ocean's freshest offerings.
The alfonsino shabu-shabu stands out, where delicate slices of fish dance in a mild, flavorful broth, an experience akin to culinary poetry.
For those whose heart beats for meat, the Kuroge Wagyu rare steak offers a taste of the sublime.
This marbled beauty promises a symphony of flavors and textures with every bite.
The dining experience is further heightened with a selection of seasonal sake brews, each one a fragrant embrace of tradition and artistry.
音音 新宿センタービル店 / Oto-Oto Shinjuku Center Building
Positioned within the towering the Shinjuku Center Building, "音音 新宿センタービル店 / Oto-Oto Shinjuku Center Building" emerges as a beacon of traditional washoku.
This izakaya is more than just a dining establishment—it's a journey through Japan's culinary landscape.
With over 90％ of its ingredients being sourced from within the country, every dish is a story of a particular region.
The menu transports you from the bamboo shoots of Kagawa to the ginger of Aichi, culminating in the creamy soy milk of Miyagi.
The interiors exude a sense of warmth and tradition, with polished woodwork, private rooms for those seeking solitude or intimacy, and the ever-comforting horigotatsu seating.
Seasonal dishes, like the summer unagi, tease and tantalize, promising a symphony of flavors.
Multi-course offerings ensure that diners embark on a balanced gastronomic journey, complete with fish, vegetables, rice, and soup.
The Kuroge Wagyu steak is not just a dish but an experience, a celebration of the finest meat.
Then there are the osake no ate dishes, each one carefully curated to be the perfect companion to sake.
For noodle aficionados, the Akita-sourced udon offers a comforting embrace, while green tea-infused desserts provide the sweetest of endings.
And as one navigates through this culinary map, a vast treasure trove of sake awaits, from renowned labels to boutique brews.
The sparkling sake, with its modern twist, promises to be an effervescent delight.
Features of Shinjuku
Navigating the labyrinth of Tokyo's culinary scene reveals a myriad of flavors, textures, and experiences.
But at the heart of this rich tapestry are the izakayas, timeless establishments that encapsulate the very soul of Japanese dining.
They're not just eateries; they're gateways into a world where food, drink, and camaraderie converge.
Whether it's the crispy allure of tempura at "山本屋 / Yamamotoya" or the ethereal dance of alfonsino in a shabu-shabu pot at "ぞんぶん 新宿三丁目店 / Zonbun Shinjuku 3-chome", izakayas promise a journey of discovery.
As the evening dims and lanterns glow, these places beckon with a warmth that's both comforting and exhilarating.
For those seeking to truly understand and relish the essence of Japanese culture, an evening at an izakaya is an experience not to be missed.
Written by Farrell
American translator, writer, and photographer based in Kyoto for over 20 years.
Has traveled extensively across Japan and sampled a wide range of the country's cuisine, sukiyaki being his favorite so far.
Enjoys finding excellent yet affordable food in suburbs and other locales away from the popular sightseeing spots.
His photography focuses on the harmonious blend of modern and traditional in Kyoto and elsewhere in Japan.
Avid baseball fan.
Go Hanshin Tigers!